After the last step of developing a successful clothing line, you all have been asking about how to choose the right manufacturer and how to make sure you are working with an ethical manufacturer. So, as a good and devoted production manager, here I am to tell you more about working with the right people when it comes to production time. Even though this is no rocket science, there are a couple of flags you should look for before moving forward with any factory.
Now, if you really read the INSIDE THE FASHION INDUSTRY - Production Time & Working With Manufacturers, you would know the basic steps to a successful production: inventory list, purchase order, all materials, tech packs, samples in each colorway, production markers, ask for a “PP” or “TOP”, manufacturer check-in and quality check.
Sometimes you may have all of the above points on your checklist, but still do not feel safe working with certain factories. It is normal to feel “pre-production anxiety”. All designers go through this, especially when you are developing big numbers and putting down a big investment for your production.
There are certain things that you have to look for when deciding which manufacturer you are moving forward with. Small and secret points that can make a huge difference once you start your production.
1. Providing factory with perfect tech packs & samples
This is more crucial than it looks like. Providing the manufacturer with the perfect tech packs and perfect samples leaves no room for mistakes. If they have done the wrong stitching, using the wrong color combination, the wrong labels, or trims in any of your styles, they will have to redo it. Once you provide the tech packs with the correct information and the perfect samples, they have everything they need to base off and to make sure every single garment looks exactly as it is supposed to.
2. Creating PP samples
Ok, I know creating samples and samples just adds to the budget, but, in my personal opinion, do not be cheap when it comes to creating samples and making sure the manufacturer will provide the quality you are expecting.
If you have read the INSIDE THE FASHION INDUSTRY - Production Time & Working With Manufacturers blog post, you would know that PP means “Pre Production” samples. So if you do not want to spend money on creating extra samples before having the manufacturer cut all your garments, at least have them produce a PP.
Some factories might ask for a fee to cut & sew the PP, but, believe me, you do not want to go ahead and have them finish an entire production before seeing at least one PP in each style.
3. Inventory list
Big factories tend to lose some trims and fabrics. It is normal when they are working with hundreds of different clients. So you have to be organized!
Providing them with the necessary materials only and creating an inventory list is a great idea to make sure your fabrics and trims are not being wasted and you can always pick up your fabric leftovers - if you plan on reutilizing them in the future.
4. Quality check
Weekly checkups are one of the most important keys to making sure your manufacturer is on time, on top of your production, and not missing anything.
If you cannot be at the factory every week, which is normal if you are working with an offshore manufacturer, your production manager or the head of the production should be able to provide you with updates and pictures of the process - where they are at, how many units have been finished for the past week and how many units/styles still in production.
5. Getting in contact with the factory owner or head of the production
As I mentioned in the blog post FASHION IMMIGRANTS, this industry is made of immigrants and most of the factory owners do not even speak English. If you are working with an offshore manufacturing company, then it makes it even more impossible to meet the factory owner.
But, if you are working with a manufacturer that is legit and ethical, they should have a representative in your country or, at least, a referral that could possibly be the mediator and formally introduce you to the factory owner and head of the production.
6. The manufacturer name matches the business account
You will know exactly who you are paying. So when you meet the factory owner, follow your instincts. If you feel something is wrong or sketchy, do not move forward. A good way to know if there is something wrong or unethical is to make sure you will get the factory’s payment information, after all, you will be paying them for the production and it is always a 50% deposit before starting the work. So when you get the payment information, just make sure the business account matches the owner's name or the business name itself. If the business name is something completely odd or if the owner only takes cash payment, then you know that there are red flags everywhere.
7. Visiting the manufacturer/ seeing pictures of the places
Again, when working with an offshore manufacturer becomes a little harder to make an in-person visit, but whoever is the manufacturer representative should be able to provide you with pictures and maybe videos of the place - sometimes it is a bit hard to get pictures and videos of the people working at the factory because they have to respect people’s privacy and desire to not be on the camera, but pictures and videos of the space should not be an issue.
As I mentioned in several blog posts and mentioned on INSIDE THE FASHION INDUSTRY - Production Time & Working With Manufacturers post as well, you might do everything right, but this does not mean shit will not happen. When developing a clothing line, the production time is when things tend to happen. Production is one of the most stressful times of the development process and not everyone wants to do it - that is why you do not see a lot of production managers and it is a growing field of the fashion industry.
Being prepared and adding room for error, not only on your budget but also on your timeline, is crucial to avoid any major delays and have your production done on time for the correct season. Choosing the right manufacturing that is ethical, attends to your needs and standards is also part of obtaining a successful clothing line. As I said, it is not rocket science. It is actually easy when you know what red flags you should look for.
Comments