Let’s move into a step of product development that nobody really understands, nobody wants to understand and when people try, they do not get it (lol, but for real). Not trying to scare anyone, but it is pretty much like this and, even though none of my clients ever like going over digitizing and grading, it is a very important step and crucial to making sure your collection fits perfectly.
Involving some math (a lot of math), the good news here is that you do not need to understand the math, you just have to understand your size chart and its measurements. After choosing a proper size chart for your clothing line, creating the perfect pattern and the perfect sample, it is time to make that pattern digital and create each size.
Let’s break this step into parts, so I can (try) to explain to you all what digitizing and grading means.
1. Digitizing
Digitizing is the easier part. This simply means taking your pattern base and making it digital.
This step might seem simple but making your patterns digital is actually a way of being safe (in case something happens to your paper patterns) because it will last forever. Also, do not forget that having your pattern in a computer system makes it international, so you can send your patterns to anywhere in the world - in case you are thinking of doing production offshore.
2. Grading
Ok, this is where things get a little more complicated - pretty much because here is where the math starts.
Here is a size chart example.
The industry standard for women's grading is usually between 1.5’’ and 2’’ between sizes. So, for example, if your bust measurement on size XS is 31’’ the size S will be 32’’ - based on the All Saints size chart, which is 1’’ between the smaller sizes and 2’’ between larger sizes.
How the grading works is pretty much like this: each pattern piece will be graded accordingly, so if the grading rules are 2’’ per size, the front body piece will be graded 1’’ and the back part piece will be graded another 1’’, a total of 2’’ for the body. Did you get that? If not, well… that is what I am talking about when referring to grading.
3. Printing plot outs in each size
Once the grading is done it is time to print the digital pattern in each size you will be producing. Those prints are called plot-outs.
Plot-outs are nothing more than paper but printed in different sizes. For example, you can order a plot out of the base pattern (which will be the same size as the original pattern made) or you can order a plot out in size XS, size S…
4. Size check run
Ok, this is why plot-outs are important. Once your pattern is graded, you will order plot-outs in each size you will be producing, and create a sample in each size to test the pattern. But do not worry, we will get into size check run details on the next blog post.
I hope this post did not scare you. Remember, this is a hard niche inside the fashion industry and some people take specific classes just to learn about grading and build their careers only doing this. Even experienced production managers do not know this deeply, we understand it.
Our next step is going to get you back to what we know you all like the most, hands-on fittings and seeing your final products. Next step: size check run.
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