The fashion industry has increasingly come under scrutiny for the chemicals used in fabric production, which can harm both consumers and the environment. Knowing which chemicals to avoid when selecting materials is crucial for making sustainable and health-conscious decisions, particularly as fashion brands aim to embrace transparency and eco-friendly practices. Below is a breakdown of the main chemicals to be cautious of, the fabrics that tend to contain them, and safer alternatives.
1. Formaldehyde
Commonly found in: wrinkle-resistant and stain-resistant fabrics such as cotton blends and polyester.
Formaldehyde is often used in textiles to prevent wrinkles and mildew, but exposure to this chemical can cause skin irritation, respiratory problems, and is classified as a human carcinogen by the World Health Organization (WHO).
Safer alternatives:
Look for organic cotton or fabrics certified by OEKO-TEX, which test for the presence of harmful substances like formaldehyde.
Opt for natural fibers like linen or hemp, which are less likely to be chemically treated.
2. Azo Dyes
Commonly found in: synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon, and even some cotton.
Azo dyes are used to color fabrics but can release carcinogenic compounds, particularly when in contact with human skin. The EU has banned certain azo dyes, but they are still prevalent in many other markets.
Safer alternatives:
Choose natural dyes made from plants or minerals.
Look for fabrics dyed using low-impact dyes, which use less water and fewer toxic chemicals.
3. Phthalates
Commonly found in: PVC, synthetic leather, and water-resistant fabrics.
Phthalates are plasticizers used to make materials more flexible. They are linked to various health risks, including endocrine disruption and reproductive harm, and are especially common in vinyl and faux leather.
Safer alternatives:
Consider using organic cotton, bamboo, or Tencel for water-resistant properties.
Choose natural leather tanned with vegetable-based processes rather than chemical-based methods.
4. Perfluorochemicals (PFCs)
Commonly found in: stain-resistant and water-repellent fabrics such as those used in outerwear.
PFCs are widely used to create water and stain repellents, but they are persistent pollutants and have been associated with developmental problems, immune system harm, and even cancer.
Safer alternatives:
Opt for fabrics treated with wax coatings or natural oils instead of PFCs.
Look for brands using non-fluorinated Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coatings.
5. Chlorine Bleach
Commonly found in: conventionally processed cotton, linens, and other textiles requiring a bright white appearance.
Chlorine bleach is often used in the textile industry to whiten fabrics, but it produces harmful byproducts like dioxins, which are highly toxic and can accumulate in the environment and the food chain.
Safer alternatives:
Choose unbleached fabrics or those whitened with hydrogen peroxide, a safer bleaching alternative.
Seek out brands certified by Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which prohibits the use of chlorine bleach.
6. BPA (Bisphenol A)
Commonly found in: Polyester fabrics, particularly those used in thermal paper, plastic coatings, and synthetic materials.
BPA is a chemical commonly found in plastics, but it can also be present in polyester textiles, especially fabrics treated to be water-resistant or stain-resistant. Exposure to BPA has been linked to various health issues, including hormonal disruptions, reproductive harm, and developmental problems.
Safer alternatives:
Opt for natural fibers such as organic cotton, wool, or hemp, which are less likely to be treated with BPA-containing resins or coatings.
Consider using Tencel or Modal, eco-friendly fibers that avoid plastic-based additives.
If it’s not possible to completely avoid polyester materials, look for certifications such as OEKO-TEX or GOTS, which test for and limit the presence of harmful chemicals like BPA.
Including BPA expands the awareness of the chemicals that may be hidden in common fabrics, reinforcing the importance of making informed, health-conscious choices in fashion material sourcing.
Managing Chemicals When You Can’t Avoid Certain Fabrics
If avoiding fabrics with these chemicals is not possible, it’s crucial to reduce exposure by choosing materials with lower chemical percentages and understanding the safe limits.
Formaldehyde: The European Union sets a maximum concentration of 75 ppm (parts per million) of formaldehyde for clothing, while the United States does not have a specific regulation for adult clothing but limits formaldehyde levels in children's clothing to 20 ppm. Look for fabrics that are tested and fall within these limits.
Azo Dyes: Avoid fabrics that are heavily dyed or sourced from countries without strict dye regulations. Opt for GOTS-certified fabrics, which ensure minimal use of hazardous chemicals.
Phthalates: The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission restricts phthalates in children's products, but for adult fashion, look for labels such as REACH-compliant fabrics in Europe, which monitor and restrict dangerous chemicals like phthalates.
Choosing Safer, Sustainable Materials
The chemicals found in fashion textiles pose risks to both human health and the environment. However, by carefully selecting materials and seeking certifications such as OEKO-TEX and GOTS, fashion designers and consumers alike can mitigate the impact of harmful chemicals. When it comes to sourcing fabrics, prioritize organic, natural fibers, and alternatives that avoid the use of toxic chemicals, and always check for regulatory compliance to ensure safety. This approach not only promotes sustainability but also ensures that the fashion industry moves toward a cleaner, safer future.
Sources:
European Chemicals Agency, "REACH Regulation Overview."
OEKO-TEX, "Tested for Harmful Substances."
This knowledge is critical for making informed decisions that will impact both the wearer's health and the fashion brand's sustainability journey.
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