The next step in developing your line is the pattern, prototype, and sample making. Let’s just say that all these three steps are not rocket science, but it is almost. Achieving the right fit is the goal for a successful clothing line and successful sales, so you have to make sure you are working with the right team and pattern makers.
No, do not get scared with pattern making. Your team will find the best pattern makers for your type of garments and get you different development quotes (as they should). But be scared if you decide to create the patterns yourself when you know you have basic skills in pattern making… lol, but for real!
A couple of notes and a brief explanation about patterns, prototypes, and samples.
1. Patterns
As I said, pattern making is not rocket science, but it is almost… patterns are the garment itself first created in paper or a computer system. Most old-school pattern makers do everything by hand (so do I), but it takes a lot of “engineering” to see a sketch, translate that into a 2D paper that will fit a 3D body.
Even the best pattern makers in the world, sometimes, need to redo patterns and make alterations, so adding a little room for error and making sure you add an extra budget for at least two rounds of patterns and alterations is a necessary move.
2. Prototypes
Prototypes are the first view of the pattern. Normally prototypes are done in any fabric that is similar to the fabric you will be using on the actual garment, but cheaper - that is why people like to use muslin and “create muslin” as pattern tests.
The prototypes should be simple and, most times, will not be completely finished. Prototypes do not need trims (no need to add buttons, zippers, snaps…), and the hem, sleeves, the collar will not be perfectly finished. The main goal of the prototype is to make sure the pattern measurements and construction fit.
If the pattern needs alterations, you will most likely need new prototypes, but if minor alterations are needed, like changing the bottom hem or making the garment length shorter, then you can do pattern modifications and move straight into the actual samples.
3. Samples
Ok, once your patter construction and measurements are 100% good to go, then you are ready to start on your actual samples.
Samples should be the perfect reading of your garments. Every detail, every trim, every seam, and every stitch needs to be perfect on the final samples. Yes, sometimes you might want to twerk some details in construction, fabrics, and trims, so more than one round of samples will be needed.
Remember, samples will be used to approve the final fitting, also for your photoshoot and you can always sell them down the road. But the most important thing is that your samples and your tech packs are what factories will look at when doing your production.
You can develop your patterns and samples in the US and then make your production anywhere else in the world. As long as your tech packs and samples are perfect, the room for error should be 0.1% - we know that things always happen so that tiny room for error is always necessary.
Patterns always need alterations. There is no way we can escape that. Developing more than one round of prototypes and samples is crucial to make sure the pattern alterations did work and the garment fits perfectly. This is one of the stages where you should not try to save money. Create as many rounds of patterns and samples as needed to confirm the fit before moving on to the next step: digitizing and grading.
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