A couple of days ago, I spoke against fast fashion on social media. So, obviously, here I am blogging about it! Not because I’m trying to explain myself, but because there’s an issue in the fast fashion niche that needs to be better understood.
My statement was more than “you need to choose quality over quantity” or “fast fashion is polluting the environment.” No! I actually dug into the real reason why consuming (too much) fast fashion isn’t a good thing. Let’s be clear, I also, sometimes, consume fast fashion brands! Everyone does that or, at least, has done it once in their lifetime. Fast fashion is something we all know won’t disappear, but changing how we consume these goods can have an impact that goes far beyond the simple explanation of “quality control.”
One of the most alarming issues in fast fashion is the lack of control over the chemicals used in production. Brands often take advantage of cheap, toxic materials because they operate under a business model where compliance documents are rarely, if ever, requested. Direct-to-consumer brands like Shein are notorious for bypassing the traditional checks in place for wholesale manufacturers. Since their goods are shipped straight to customers, there is virtually no oversight to ensure that harmful substances aren’t present in the clothing. Who’s going to ask for compliance documents for a dress that costs $10 and gets delivered to your doorstep? The lack of regulation creates a blind spot, allowing brands to use materials that would otherwise be flagged for safety concerns.
While convenient and affordable, fast fashion poses significant problems that extend far beyond the mantra of "quality over quantity." Many consumers are lured by trendy, inexpensive clothing without considering the hidden costs—particularly those affecting health. It’s not just about a lack of durability or the environmental impact. Fast fashion garments are often made with materials that contain hazardous chemicals like formaldehyde, phthalates, and azo dyes, which can be absorbed through the skin and lead to long-term health issues. Many countries have begun adapting their laws to regulate these chemicals in clothing, but unfortunately, these regulations typically only apply to the wholesale segment of the fashion industry, where safety compliance is more strictly enforced.
Direct-to-consumer fast fashion brands exploit these gaps in regulation. Since they aren’t selling wholesale to retailers who would require safety documentation, they’re able to get away with using cheaper, more dangerous materials. This leads to a broader issue: the health risks associated with prolonged exposure to these toxic chemicals. The risks aren’t limited to skin irritation or discomfort. Over time, wearing clothing made from such materials can contribute to hormone disruption, respiratory issues, and even cancer. The consequences of this exposure are particularly troubling in countries like Brazil (my home country), where fast fashion has taken off in a major way.
In Brazil, the appeal of fast fashion is undeniable. For many, the affordability and accessibility of these brands offer an opportunity to stay on trend without breaking the bank. But the high consumption of fast fashion in Brazil, coupled with the country’s strained public healthcare system, makes the situation even more alarming. The public healthcare system in Brazil, known as SUS (Sistema Único de Saúde), is already under immense pressure, with long wait times and limited resources (personal experience, I have a cousin who waited 15 years for a surgery). Now, imagine adding long-term health complications caused by exposure to toxic clothing to an already overstretched healthcare system.
For the average Brazilian consumer, affordability often trumps concerns about quality or safety. But without strong public healthcare systems to catch these long-term effects, people are left vulnerable to the health hazards that come with fast fashion. It’s clear that the principle of “quality over quantity” isn’t just about better-made clothing or reducing waste; it’s about protecting consumers from the harmful consequences of wearing chemically treated fabrics.
Fast fashion brands like Shein and Zara have all faced public backlash in recent years over their poor handling of chemical safety and quality control. These brands, which dominate the low-cost clothing market, have been found to use hazardous substances in their products, with little transparency or accountability. The marketing of these companies may promise affordable style, but the reality is that the hidden costs—both environmental and personal—are far greater than what meets the eye.
So, while fast fashion isn’t going anywhere, we must begin to rethink how we approach it so that fast fashion brands will start adapting. H&M is a brand that recently decided to listen to new consumer behavior and realign its values. Business of Fashion wrote The Debrief | Fast Fashion Market Disruption with Shein and H&M, where they pointed out that H&M is betting on sustainability and creative direction to reinstate brand value. While H&M’s investment in creative direction isn’t entirely new—after all, they even had a collection signed by Karl Lagerfeld—the point is that fast fashion might never disappear, but international brands are listening and adapting.
Again, I also consume fast fashion goods! And I do believe that the solution doesn’t lie in eliminating fast fashion but in changing how we consume it. We need to demand higher transparency, push for stricter regulation on the use of chemicals, and prioritize our health over short-lived trends. This shift is especially important in countries like my beloved Brazil, where the impact of fast fashion can have far-reaching consequences that go beyond what’s visible on the surface.
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